There is plenty of eye candy at Portsmith, the gleaming seafood spot on the ground floor of the Dana Hotel and Spa: the marble tiles designed to look like fish scales; the walnut bar, sanded silky smooth; the chandelier of globes strung from the ceiling like bobbers on a fishing line. So I was extra pleased that the most dazzling thing I encountered while dining there was on my plate, in the form of a gorgeous tail-on fillet of yellowtail snapper, brushed gently with XO sauce, accompanied by delicately spiced baby shiitake mushrooms and edible flowers, and propped up preposterously on its edge like a saw blade. In the long-established restaurant practice of food as sculpture, this fish may just take the cake.

660 N. State St., River North