I often start at Fishman’s Fabrics to find Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics from Italy. I bring it over to Oxxford Clothes (5635 S. Archer Ave., oxxfordclothes.com), one of the few bespoke suit makers still doing everything on premise. Julian Delos Reyes, the VP of sales, will give you the exact count of how many stitches are required on collars and lapels — 600 and 1600, respectively. They have a special technique: They line the outside edge of the jacket and the lining, so that after you fold your jacket for travel, it reverts back to its natural shape. Everything I wear is slim-fitting paired with boots. But I’ll never wear a suit with an open-collar shirt. That rule dates back to the days when I was a punk.
3 weeks ago