Tacos: Big Star in Wicker Park

The quintessential anti-sports bar opens in Wicker Park

For a while it was fashionable to lament the shuttering of the Pontiac Cafe as the latest desecration of Wicker Park. Then Paul Kahan’s crew (Publican, Blackbird) grabbed the beloved space and set about creating a taquería/honky-tonk. “The last thing we wanted to see was another sports bar,” says Terry Alexander, a partner. They are about to unveil what may be the quintessential anti–sports bar: no TVs; obscure whiskeys and tequilas; a DJ playing old Buck Owens LPs; and a walk-up window for takeout tacos al pastor and frijoles charros. Wicker Parkers seem fine with this arrangement. 1531 N. Damen Ave.; 773-235-4039.

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