Makes 8 servings. These mushrooms develop a rich jus that acts like a sauce. The surprise ingredient? Cinnamon.

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 lb. chanterelle, black trumpet, and hedgehog mushrooms, trimmed and washed
1 lb. button mushrooms, trimmed and washed
2 tsp. salt
Freshly ground white pepper
¼ cup minced shallots
4 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
½ cup Calvados
½ cup apple cider
1½ cups chicken or vegetable stock
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon
4 Tbsp. cold butter, cubed
½ cup diced tomatoes (optional)
2 Tbsp. minced chives

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil and swirl to evenly coat the pan. Add mushrooms and toss with salt and pepper. (You can also use two skillets or cook mushrooms in batches.) Cook until mushrooms release their liquid, about 2 minutes, and then continue to cook until the liquid evaporates. Add shallots and garlic and cook until shallots soften, 2 minutes.

Add Calvados and reduce to dry. Add cider, stock, and cinnamon; bring to a boil, then simmer until the liquid reduces to a ½ cup. Stir in butter, letting it gradually melt to emulsify. Remove garlic and season with salt and pepper. Off the heat, stir in tomatoes and garnish with chives.
Do ahead: Up to 2 days ahead (omit the tomatoes and chives); cover and chill. Reheat and garnish before serving.