Simpler is decidedly better at this pleasant neighborhood joint, so do yourself a favor and steer clear of the more ambitious-sounding dishes. Salads are a safe bet, whether a caesar with pumpernickel croutons or arugula with Asiago. The aggressively seasoned fried chicken is full of flavor, and its buttermilk mashed potatoes are just light enough to accommodate the addition of white sausage gravy. Crispy-skinned sautéed trout with green beans, peas, baby carrots, and frisée is surprisingly delicate and well conceived, with the vegetables just barely cooked. Desserts include a butterscotch pudding with vanilla ice cream and candied walnuts, which gets a welcome jolt from rosemary. Friendly service.
Arugula salad with Asiago and a lemon dressing ($8); caesar salad with pumpernickel croutons ($8); tomato bisque with blue-cheese grilled cheese ($10); fried chicken with buttermilk mashed potatoes ($25); sautéed trout with green beans, peas, baby carrots, and frisée ($25); butterscotch pudding with vanilla ice cream, candied walnuts, and rosemary ($7); fried pound cake with lavender yogurt and fresh berries ($8)