At this amusingly basic chef-driven diner, Dennis Bernard (Publican) re-creates Tex-Mex specialties, both heavy (thick-sliced smoked brisket in a jumbo flour tortilla) and light (citrus-marinated seafood ceviche), for a mellow, tatted crowd. Whenever One Off partner Paul Kahan is involved, meaty dishes rule—such as buttermilk-fried boneless chicken—and cocktails are stiff and affordable. The counter seats facing Damen Avenue provide great people-watching.
Dishes We Liked
Chicken fried chicken with chorizo verde gravy, sweet peas, and pearl onions ($16); ham and cheese ahogada with Munster cheese, chile de arbol salsa, and a fried egg ($13); sikil p’aak (pumpkin seed dip) with radishes and seeded crackers ($7)