Sharply conceived dishes that are robust yet light fill the $135 tasting menu at Chris Nugent’s upscale BYO. Meals progress through richer-than-expected seafood to brighter-than-expected meats and finish in complex desserts. The menu changes frequently, but successes such as a scallop in curry and lobster ragoût deserve repeat performances. Cleverly prepared goat or Alpine-style cheeses elevate the cheese course from afterthought to effective transition. At this price level, the BYO policy is especially endearing.
Dishes We Liked
(All dishes are part of a prix fixe menu.) Scallop in curry and lobster ragoût with licorice-coconut foam; preserved-garlic, tomato, and rosemary custard with shrimp and peas; duck breast with ginger-spiced black beluga lentils and salad of apple, fennel, and juniper; fried phyllo-wrapped goat cheese with roasted red pepper purée and lemon balm; Cinderella pumpkin and Turkish coffee mousse in white chocolate with candied ginger, citrus, and mulling spices.