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2656 W. Lawrence Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625

Critic’s Notes

Sharply conceived robust but light dishes fill the $135 tasting menu at Chris Nugent’s upscale BYO. Meals progress through richer-than-expected seafood to brighter-than-expected meats and finish in complex, eye-opening desserts. Although the menu changes less frequently than you’d guess for a restaurant named after a plant family, successes such as scallop in curry and lobster ragoût with licorice-coconut foam and duck breast with ginger-spiced beluga lentils and compressed apple deserve repeat performances. Cleverly prepared goat or Alpine-style cheese elevates the cheese course from afterthought to effective transition. The BYO policy is endearing, but finding one’s own wines to match this level of food can be too much work.

Dishes We Liked

(All dishes are part of a prix fixe menu.) Scallop in curry and lobster ragoût with licorice-coconut foam; preserved-garlic, tomato, and rosemary custard with shrimp and peas; duck breast with ginger-spiced black beluga lentils and salad of apple, fennel, and juniper; fried phyllo-wrapped goat cheese with roasted red pepper purée and lemon balm; Cinderella pumpkin and Turkish coffee mousse in white chocolate with candied ginger, citrus, and mulling spices.

Related Stories

Dish: see "Seven Questions for Chris Nugent" October 2011

Additional Information:

Price: $50-plus
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Neighborhood: Lincoln Square
Noteworthy: BYO (up to $5 corkage)
Free dinner parking
Wheelchair accessible
Hours: D Wed-Sat.
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