Initially, there’s little to differentiate this place from the legion of other strip-mall Thai spots in the city and suburbs. Same exhaustive menu of Thai and Chinese specialties. Same bed of faux flowers in the center of the room. Same towering poster of bubble-tea smoothies that look big enough to sate Godzilla. But it just so happens that the kitchen here knows how to cook the classics. Everything from the satisfyingly sweet pad Thai to whole red snapper is served up in massive portions at wallet-friendly prices. The wine and dessert options are practically nonexistent, but you’d be hard-pressed to find a better bowl of tom ka soup anywhere this side of old Siam.