Keith Willis, the new chef, uses modernist flair when he pairs fine sauces with artisanal ingredients from the restaurant's garden for his $55 four-course menu (wine pairings $35). Potato mousseline comes arrayed with scrambled-egg foam, caper salt, dill pollen, char roe, and delicate orange sauce. Rare squab breast in a squab and cinnamon reduction with pickled cherries and king trumpet mushrooms is midcourse magic, and the white chocolate lava cake, alongside chocolate pot de crème and peanut butter toffee ice cream, is as stylish as the room. Service is well intentioned but erratic.
(All dishes are part of a $55 prix fixe menu.) Pickled heirloom beet salad with smoked yogurt, seared foie gras with strawberry ice, seared Alaskan halibut on freeze-dried corn chowder, Dreamsicle of orange semifreddo with ginger tuille and cardamom anglaise