Serving up healthy portions of straight-ahead Southern cooking in a charming setting, Table Fifty-Two is a study in contrasts. It’s tempting to stick with the classics, including shrimp and outstanding grits, fried catfish that is almost fluffy under its cornmeal crust, and meaty fried chicken and mashed potatoes. But chef Art Smith is more than a regionalist, and he shows his touch with a tender duck leg complemented by beluga lentils, braised cabbage, green curry, and cherry wine. You won’t need it, but a heaping side of cauliflower with cheddar, pepperoncini, and bacon is super, as is the pear and apple tart with intense caramel ice cream. Ask to sit in the even more charming dining room upstairs.