The Road to Summer
Warm-Weather Getaways for Fun, Romance, and Adventure
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Where To Stay | Dining | Amenities | Things To Do | How To Get There |
Lazy Cloud Lodge
Fontana, Wisconsin
As locals tell the story, Paul Newman slept here, in 1949, while doing summer stock in nearby Williams Bay. And J. D. Salinger, they say, spent a summer here as well, while writing The Catcher in the Rye. So it's little surprise that bells don't go off at the mention of Edward Uihlein, the wealthy Chicagoan (he owned the city's Schlitz beer franchise) who originally built the place as a polo playground in the early 1920s (his nearby estate, Forest Glen, burned down around the same time). Today, Lazy Cloud Lodge is a romantic B&B situated on secluded, flower-filled grounds on the west end of Geneva Lake (eight miles from the town of Lake Geneva). On weekends, when a two-night stay is required, rooms go for $185 a night, while suites are $215. Most suites have their own deck, fireplace, double whirlpool, and private entrance. If you want to follow in Salinger's footsteps, ask for the Log Cabin Suite-and it's pretty easy to figure out whom the Paul Newman Suite is named after (N2025 N. Lakeshore Dr.; 262-275-3322).
Guests enjoy a continental breakfast each morning, and receive a complimentary bottle of wine each evening. For a ritzy romantic dinner, consider one of these Lake Geneva restaurants (each ensconced inside a local hotel or resort that makes a fine alternative to Lazy Cloud Lodge): The Grandview Restaurant at The Geneva Inn (N2009 S. Lake Shore Dr.; 262-248-5680); Ristorante Brissago at the Grand Geneva Resort and Spa (at Hwys. 50 and 12; 262-248-8811); and Kirsch's, on Como Lake at The French Country Inn (W4190 West End Rd., 262-245-5756; reach The French Country Inn at 262-245-5220). Looking for something more casual? Try Popeye's Galley & Grog (811 Wrigley Dr., Lake Geneva; 262-248-4381). Global Gourmet sells a wide range of condiments and wine, as well as gift baskets to satisfy even the hungriest gourmand; sample various wines each Saturday from 12:30 to 5 p.m. (738 W. Main St., Lake Geneva; 262-248-3222).
There are many ways to explore Geneva Lake. Walk the 20.6-mile lakeshore path to see the great shoreline houses (many local retailers sell a guide called Walk, Talk & Gawk). For swimming fun, head off the beaten path to Big Foot Beach State Park (1452 Hwy. H, Lake Geneva; 262-248-2528). Jerry's Marine has three locations for boat rentals and one for parasailing (262-275-5222), and the Lake Geneva Cruise Line offers day and evening trips on the water, including an opportunity to travel along on the mailboat tour (812 Wrigley Dr.; 262-248-6206). Finally, consider going airborne with the Lake Geneva Balloon Co., which lifts off just before sunrise and sunset (262-206-3975); balloonists gather at the Lake Geneva Pie Co. (in the Geneva Square Shopping Center), which offers a wide assortment of fruit pies, quiches, and picnic lunches (150 E. Geneva Sq.; 262-248-5100).
Lake Geneva is 75 miles from Chicago. It takes about two hours to travel there by car.
For information about other activities near Lazy Cloud Lodge, contact the Lake Geneva Area Convention & Visitors Bureau at 800-345-1020 or www.lakegenevawi.com
The Raj
Fairfield, Iowa
After helping John, Paul, George, and Ringo discover their inner Beatle, the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi put Fairfield, Iowa, on the map. In the 1970s, that guru of the transcendental meditation movement transformed sleepy Parsons College into what is today the Maha-rishi University of Management, and from that followed an internationally renowned health spa, a lively dining, arts, and music scene, and finally, in 2001, a whole new town (kind of a city within a city) called Maharishi Vedic City. Visitors can explore Fairfield in a variety of ways. Some opt to stay at the 13-year-old Raj Vedic Health Spa, which employs a 6,000-year-old discipline-called Ayurveda, or "knowledge of life"-to fend off modern-day maladies. Following a consultation with Nancy Lonsdorf, the spa's chief physician (who trained at Johns Hopkins and Stanford universities) or one of the Raj's other health experts, each guest undergoes an individualized regimen of rejuvenation therapies-called "panchakarma"-designed to relieve stress and rid the body of toxins and impurities. Rates start at $645 a day (for a minimum of three days) and include lodging, meals, and therapies-though guests can also design a one- or two-day stay, paying as they go for a limited range of services (1734 Jasmine Ave.; 641-472-9580).
More casual visitors may prefer the Rukmapura Park Hotel, where the elegant suites (starting at $119 a night) resemble the lodgings in a European country inn (1702 Rukmapura Park; 641-469-1919). Half-day tours of Vedic City and The Raj (where lunch is served) commence at the spa on Friday and Sunday mornings at 11 ($30; 641-472-9580).
The Raj serves low-fat, organic vegetarian meals, with an emphasis on vegetables, fruits, grains, and nuts. Fairfield itself has a remarkable array of ethnic restaurants, offering Thai, Indian, Mexican, and other cuisines. Other dining choices include Revelations Café and Bookstore, which, in addition to selling used books, serves up pizzas from its wood-fired oven (112 N. Main St.; 641-472-6733). Nearby, Petit Paris emphasizes fresh soups, crepes and quiches, and enticing specialties like coq au vin (108 N. Main St.; 641-470-1624). Cafe Paradiso pours a good cup of coffee, while also showcasing local musicians and artists (607 W. Broadway Ave.; 641-472-0856). Cafe Dodici, one of the best restaurants in southeast Iowa, is only 28 miles northeast of Fairfield (122 S. Iowa Ave., Washington; 319-653-4012).
In addition to its therapies, The Raj provides guests with twice-daily yoga classes, cooking classes, Ayurvedic health tapes, and nightly lecturers. Guests can explore the spa's 100 acres along wooded trails-and Fairfield has 17 miles of biking and hiking trails, as well as a heritage trail with more than 50 local landmarks (641-472-4421). This wide-ranging architectural collection includes the first (of more than 2,800) Andrew Carnegie–sponsored public library (no longer a library, it's at the northwest corner of South Court Street and East Washington Avenue) and one of the original Dairy Queen franchises-though now it's called the Dairy Bar (1002 W. Burlington Ave.; 641-472-2417). On June 21st, celebrate the arrival of the summer solstice at the Maharishi Vedic Observatory, an open-air facility that tracks the movements of the sun, the planets, and the stars with a series of ancient masonry sundials (2100 Mansion Dr.; 641-470-7070). Each month, 19 local galleries participate in a lively First Fridays Art Walk (641-472-8135).
Fairfield is 295 miles west of Chicago, typically about a five-and-a-half-hour drive. You can shave a little time off that trip by flying from O'Hare Airport to the Eastern Iowa Airport in Cedar Rapids (United and American airlines both make the one-hour flight). There you can rent a car for the 100-mile drive to Fairfield.
For more information about area events and attractions, contact the Fairfield Chamber of Commerce at 641-472-2111 or www.fairfieldiowa.com
The Belvedere Inn
Saugatuck, Michigan
The summertime crowds that overwhelm Saugatuck can occasionally blunt the charms of this capital of the self-styled "Art Coast of Michigan." For relief, slip away to The Belvedere Inn, a sumptuous five-acre property on the city's outskirts that has served, in various guises, as a haven for Chicagoans since the 19th century. (Built in 1913 from a design by Dwight Perkins, a colleague of Frank Lloyd Wright, the inn itself originally was the summer home of a Peoples Gas VP.) Accommodations start at $180 a night and top out at $295 for the Belvedere Suite, which has a separate living room, as well as a fireplace, whirlpool, and wet bar. The inn requires a two-night minimum stay on the weekends, and three nights during the months of July and August; no pets, nor children under 14 (3656 63rd St.; 269-857-5777).
The mile-long Oval Beach is one of the prettiest stretches along Lake Michigan, but Saugatuck Dunes State Park offers even more sand and seclusion, though you do have to hike a half-mile to the beach (just north of town off 138th Avenue; 269-637-2788). Other options to enjoy the waterfront include the Saugatuck Dune Rides (half a mile west of I-196 on Blue Star Hwy.; 269-857-2253), the Star of Saugatuck paddlewheel boat cruises (716 Water St.; 269-857-4261), and the annual Venetian Night celebration, with a lighted boat parade and fireworks (July 29th; 269-857-1701; various locations). Duffers can head to one of four local golf courses, including Ravines Golf Club, designed by Arnold Palmer (3520 Palmer Dr.; 269-857-1616).
Saugatuck's reputation as an artists' haven dates back to at least 1910, when the Art Institute of Chicago installed its summer school, Ox-Bow, which today regularly schedules exhibitions and auctions (3435 Rupprecht Way; 269-857-5811). There are more than 30 galleries in Saugatuck and in nearby Douglas, including the 12,500-square-foot Joyce Petter Gallery (161 Blue Star Hwy., Saugatuck; 269-857-7861). The four-day Waterfront Film Festival-think Sundance without Robert Redford-kicks off June 8th (at various venues; 269-857-8351). The six-week season for the Chamber Music Festival of Saugatuck begins July 13th, with an all-Mozart program scheduled for August 17th and 18th (303 Butler St.; 616-393-5555). The Mason Street Warehouse stages comedies and musicals such as Cabaret, from August 4th through 20th (400 Culver St.; 269-857-4898). Celebrated state-wide for its annual themed exhibitions, the Saugatuck-Douglas Historical Society this year presents Raising the Roof, which explores local buildings and architecture (735 Park St.; 269-857-7900). A 75-minute walking tour of historic Saugatuck begins each Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at 2 p.m. (or by appointment) at the information booth at Culver and Butler streets (269-857-2985).
A full breakfast (in the dining room or on the terrace) is included in your stay at The Belvedere Inn, which also offers afternoon tea and gourmet dining in the evenings (guests are invited to bring their own beer, wine, or Champagne). In town, Marro's Italian Restaurant is a popular destination for pizza (147 Water St.; 269-857-4248), while Kilwin's is known for its fudge and ice cream (152 Butler St.; 269-857-1195). The 93-year-old Saugatuck Drug Store has an old-fashioned soda fountain (201 Butler St.; 269-857-2300). Across the Kalamazoo River in Douglas, Everyday People Café serves upscale "eclectic comfort food" (11 Center St.; 269-857-4240). For more information, contact the Saugatuck and Douglas Convention & Visitors Bureau (269-857-1701, www.saugatuck.com).
Saugatuck is 142 miles from Chicago, a drive of about two and a half hours.
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