Big Opening: His Way

On Graham Elliot Bowles’ new River North space


Duo of heirloom beets, oung arugula, and whipped horseradish

Graham Elliot Bowles and Avenues were always a weird fit: an offbeat, wildly creative chef known to serve kangaroo with eucalyptus, melon, and lime working in a glittery hotel that catered to the Robb Report demographic. (Somehow, it worked; after all, Avenues got four stars.) But in late May, Bowles has a chance to bring his quirky vision to life in his own 150-seat River North space: Graham Elliot. This vision apparently involves servers in T-shirts and Chuck Taylors, an indie rock soundtrack including music Bowles has written, sketches of dishes on the menu, and snacks such as Spice Krispie treats with condensed milk sherbet and marinated strawberries. The “bistronomic” menu is the year’s most interesting, sprinkled as it is with brioche Twinkie croutons, Budweiser froth, and fried pickles. I, for one, can’t wait. 217 W. Huron St.; 312-624-9975

 

Photograph: Tyllie Barbosa; Food Styling: Christina Zerkis

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