Burned
Thirty-three-year-old top chef. Stage-four cancer of the tongue. Grant Achatz has been to hell—and back
(page 6 of 6)
With the exception of two weeks in the fall and a scattering of days in between, Achatz has reported to work throughout his entire ordeal. He points out that his long vacation with his girlfriend happened during a week when Alinea was closed anyway. He says he would have gone back to work immediately after his surgery except that he had drainage tubes hanging from his neck, which might have been uncomfortable for, you know, other people. Jeff Pikus remembers that when Achatz came back from treatment he displayed a lot more aggression than normal—sometimes yelling loudly enough for diners to hear, uncharacteristically getting in people's faces. "I think even that short period of time made him feel that he wasn't a part of it anymore," Pikus says. "And the natural response of a chef is to want to take it back."
These days, the kitchen at Alinea feels busier and buzzier than ever: One day not long ago, it was packed with bodies and the cooks were up to some crazy shenanigans. A guy in the corner was smoking ice—literally, trying to make a smoky haze impart its flavor to cubes of frozen water. Pikus was transforming a piece of squab into a candy bar. Greg Baxtrom, one of the sous-chefs, coated jagged glaciers of brioche purée with melted bittersweet chocolate sprayed through a motorized paint gun. Nathan Klingbail, another sous, pondered the technical aspects of freezing English-pea foam in a water balloon.
Achatz was doing his usual thing: answering the phone, e-mailing, conferring with his lieutenants, and making himself available for troubleshooting. But glimpses of his quieter inner world hung all around the place: On big pieces of white drafting paper tacked to the white-tile walls, Achatz had sketched ideas for new dishes. Some were doodles; some were illustrated platings; some were just strings of words. One burst of free association read: "Capture spring. What is it? New, fresh, ice, sprouts, delicate, fragile."
Goodbye, winter.
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Reader Comments:
This is a hell of a story. Thanks for sharing it in such a clear, unsentimental way. It's impossible not to root for the guy.
Amazing story. Really nice guy.
Thanks U of C for continuing to push the envelope.
This story is very important in stressing to people of all ages to have a regular oral cancer exam. Please ask your dentist to do so at your next visit. If they don't do it regularly, perhaps you should find a dentist who does. It may save your health or even your life.
Many more people die from oral cancers that cervical cancer. There are now simple, inexpensive screening tests using dyes, or lights, or painless tissue sampling that should be done annually.
When enough patients demand that insurance companies cover these tests, they will eventually cover the costs, as happened with Pap smear testing years ago.
Early detection is the key to successful treatment.
Greg Weathers, DDS
I told my daughter in CA about this wonderful article, in the hope that a friend of her's out there who has a similar disease could benefit from reading this and perhaps find some hope---even if it's making an appt with this miracle physician. God bless you for articles such as these---and my best wishes and prayers to the Chef!
This article has so many good examples of the difficulties cancer causes that it should be read by everyone from 9th grade on to learn how persons with the best intentions can be wrong, can rely on wrong information, disagree as to what they see or know and how much depends on luck and courage.
Hi there,
My name is Kate and I amd 34 and was diagnosed with tongue cancer in Febuary 2007. I am a non smoker and only drink socially- just wine and beer. I too am a very unusual case.
I had a near total glossectomy with 2 skin grafts 3 rounds of cisplatin and 33 rounds of imrt. I finished last May and I had been cancer free since then. I am back to working full time since July of 2007.
My recovery has been very difficult. I can speak fairly well.I do not sound like I am "grunting" when I talk. I have aspeechimpediment but I communicate fairly well with my friends co-workers My doctors would say I am 90% intelligable. I even talk on the phone. Yes it is true that many full glossectomy patietns do have to rely on a feeding tube and or can only drink thier food but it is not true for every person. Also- there are tastebuds all over the oral cavity- the tastebuds are not just on the tongue. The sense of smell plays a large part of taste.
It as a very arduus process to relearn to eat but I got my feeeding tube removed in August of 2007 now I eat almost everything I want to and almost like a regular person. I just need lots of water and I have to take small bites. I taste really well. I don't get to enjoy food for as long as I used to and its not 100 percent but its pretty good. I live in San Francisco and eat out ALL THE TIME. I eat at plenty of trendy fancy places just like Alinea and enjoy them thoroughly!
I hope that Grant's response to his treatment is 100 percent successful but the alternative treatment isn't neccesarily as horrific as you have portrayed it here. Many Physicians feel that my treatment plan was the best option so that I could live.
Maybe my experience response and recovery is one in a million. I don't know. Maybe you could all have dinner and you write a followup article to this?
Grant if you are reading this I plan to visit Chicago this summer. Iwill be CALLING and making a reservation. So you better be on top of your game the night I come in!
Sincerely,
KATE BROWN
It was great to read this article. He has been on my mind since I first heard of his diagnosis. As he was beginning his treatment at U of C. my Daughter Christa was being seen and had since Jan '07 undergone chemo (Erbitux, cisplatin) and 35 treatments of IMRT. The Doctors felt the tumor to be gone! However, residual was found.....U of Wisc. Surgeon attempted surgery unsuccessfully, because tumor had wrapped itself around her carotid artery. We saw the Drs. at U of C and she was scheduled for a major reconstruction which margins were clear on! But,she lost her tongue and had various complications following the surgery. Then began 'clean up' radiation and chemo. Only to find that the tumor cells had traveled and grew rapidly. She lost her 10month battle on November 5th. It is an evil ugly disease. She had only found a small sore on her tongue then suddenly was a big cancer tumor! Her only initial symptom, in retrospect was a pressure in her ear and soreness at the TMJ, then this sore believed, also to be her chewing on her tongue!
PLEASE, if we can only get this information out there for all! This disease is being seen in young, no risk people more and more frequently, with devastating consequences. Christa also had become quite close friends with Kate Brown from SF, on the Oral Cancer Foundation site. They became deeply bonded in their battles against this evil disease.
PLEASE, IF ANY SYMPTOMS, INCLUDING EAR PRESSURE, SORES APPEAR...DON'T SETTLE FOR THE DIAGNOSIS OF CHEWING ON IT, SINUS TROUBLE...PURSUE TILL YOU ABSOLUTELY KNOW IT IS NOT ORAL CANCER!!! PREPARE FOR THE WORST AND HOPE FOR THE BEST.
Sincerly, Linda Jones
OH! Christa was only 31 years old, with a 2 year old daughter and soulmate husband. Absolutely no risk factors for her either! The Doctors at U of Chicago are wonderful, and at the cutting edge of treatment.
I was diagnosed on Jan. 10th, 2008, with Squamous Cell Carcinoma at the base of my tongue. I had Cisplatin and 60 radiation treatments (2 per day/30 days) and the doctors are pleased with the tumor reduction. However, I will have surgery (I'm waiting on a date) to remove what remains. I already have a feed tube (for 1 month) and they will go ahead a perform a trache at the time of surgery due to the anticipated swelling. I am a 51 year old male in Jacksonville, Florida who could use your prayers. :)