Dining Tidbits
For June 2008: Perennial, Simplegourmet, L.20, Topaz
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BUDGET BEAT
Simplegourmet
We thought we weren't all that hungry, but then Debbie Karhanek, mistress of ceremonies at Simplegourmet, waved a platter of just-sautéed pot stickers under our noses. On second thought . . . The tender dumplings tasted as good as they looked—crunchy with fresh vegetables, perfect with their gingery dipping sauce. They were right up there with the robust sausage-kale soup, the Southwest chicken salad with mango and firm black beans, and a warm panino of Brie, thick-cut bacon, and fresh spinach. Karhanek and her chef, Leyla Wheelhouse, are on to something at this spiffy takeout spot, where outdoor tables mean you don't have to take the food far to enjoy it. Soups, scones, and muffins change daily, as do the offerings in the bakery case and the diverse prepared foods in the deli and freezer cases, which augment a menu of sandwiches, wraps, and salads. Expect anything from feathery raw-beet salad and white Cheddar soup to herbed roast chicken and spinach-artichoke lasagne. No matter how full you are, get a potato chip cookie for later—you won't be sorry. 1459 Elmwood Ave., Evanston; 847-332-2100. –Joanne Trestrail

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