Dining Tidbits

For June 2008: Perennial, Simplegourmet, L.20, Topaz

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OPENING
L.20
Laurent Gras, the chef of L.2O, has spent the past six months toying with us. His tantalizing blog charted every last detail about his upcoming Lettuce Entertain You seafood restaurant, from the delivery of a triple-decker steam-injected Pavailler oven from France to his plans for mojama, a Spanish salt-cured tuna. "We are thinking about drying it in a barn alongside an orchard or apple trees to get that fragrant aroma from the fruits," he writes. About the only thing he didn't do was give us a taste. Considering Gras's meticulous approach and Lettuce's deep pockets, we're expecting big things when the spot is finally unveiled on May 14th. 2300 N. Lincoln Park West; 773-868-0002. –Jeff Ruby