Dining Tidbits

For March 2008: New, Budget Beat, Sleeper, Discovery

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BUDGET BEAT
Borincuba
Spotlighting two cuisines comes naturally to sibs Aracelia Rodriguez and Frank Aguilera, who run Albany Park's Borincuba, a friendly, no-frills BYO where all the grub—as well as the name—reflects their dual Puerto Rican-Cuban heritage. "We cook food that we grew up on," says Aguilera: That means hearty, soulful Carib chow. Order at the counter, and start with empanadas, flaky-crusted and plump with red pepper-dotted ground beef ($1.25), and lightly fried rellenos de papa—creamy, addictive mashed potato balls studded with olives and ground beef ($1.25). The toasty Cuban sandwich filled with lechón (house slow-roasted pork), ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard ($5.95) is a must. Or check out the tropical jibarita, a version of the Chicago-born steak sandwich that substitutes deep-fried ripe plantain for bread. Be sure to request it paired with another Puerto Rican fave, arroz con gandules, achiote-tinted rice with musky pigeon peas. There's plenty of non-sandwich fare, too, including steaks, pork chops, and a homey, tomato-sparked beef and potato stew (carne con papa; $8.95). There's no glitz in this storefront spot, but glitz is overrated, anyway. 3424 W. Irving Park Rd.; 773-866-2822. –Jill Rohde