Come late March, if you walk into the old Tizi Melloul space, you’re likely to find a stylish clientele shucking oysters at a boomerang-shaped table. This star vehicle for Giuseppe Tentori (Boka), with its old-fishing-village façade and seafood menu, sounds 180 degrees from the decadent Turkish den of the previous occupant. (In other words, it sounds like a place you might actually go more than once every six months.) GT also represents a change for Tentori, a man itching to break out of his comfort zone and try his hand at heretical experiments such as a paella-inspired squid stuffed with shrimp and chorizo with saffron risotto. 531 N. Wells St.

Photograph: Anna Knott