The average Randolph Street restaurant has plenty of action, but this spectacle makes Girl & the Goat feel like Les Nomades. DineAmic Group’s 8,000-square-foot space packs in a massive cocktail scene, countless flat-screen TVs, a doughnut window, a 600-degree pizza oven, a DJ booth, and a two-story metal tree. An exuberant staff somehow navigates it all. The menu is built to please the masses: spot-on antipasti (roasted meatballs with ricotta), brawny pastas (truffle-toned sweet corn ravioli), rib-sticking entrées (pancetta-wrapped meatloaf), and terrific puffy-crusted pizzas (prosciutto and fig). The perpetual chaos means shattering noise—even by Randolph Street standards. But the energy is infectious.
2 days ago
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