You could dismiss Oyster Bah as a joke: the cheesy name, the red-checked tablecloths, the wood-paneled walls hung with every nautical tchotchke from here to Bar Harbor. But Lettuce Entertain You’s slice of New England overflows with so much goodwill that no one cares if it’s not cool. Some folks toss down oyster shooters, others pop king crab bites, and couples split salads brimming with seafood. More than eight varieties of oysters—fresh, broiled, grilled, or fried—keep coming from the kitchen, where chef Pete Balodimas proves himself in savvy dishes such as a crispy red snapper. Everyone’s happy, even those who spend $28 for a lobster roll, because it’s perfection.
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