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7

Sink|Swim

Logan Square

Oysters, whole Gulf shrimp, and fish and chips  Photo: Jeff Marini

The group behind Scofflaw makes waves with a foray into the restaurant world—bringing in young gun Matt Danko (Trentina) from Cleveland to man the kitchen, not at a gastropub or even a cocktail-friendly small-plate concept, but a seafood spot.

It’s two doors down but worlds away from Scofflaw’s moodily lit hubbub. Here, the oceanic vibe walks the line between kitsch and class: Blue tufted-vinyl booths line walls sporting framed portraits of white-bearded fishermen, and bottled ships bedeck the sprawling bar.

Starters of gin-cured salmon plated with parsnip ketchup, rich Frogmore stew teeming with crustaceans, and perfectly breaded Atlantic cod with thick chips showcase Danko’s ability to ace both traditional and more experimental flavors from the sea. But some of the kitchen’s greatest successes are all turf, no surf: an Asian-tinged take on beef and broccoli fares swimmingly. And the cocktails? They’re every bit as killer as Scofflaw’s.

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