It sounds like a stunt. After considering the cutesy name and the restaurant’s self-described “vegetable-forward” slant, to say nothing of decor that includes an old trough filled with greenery, one might assume the worst.
But Bad Hunter is legit, and it also serves a few proteins. Dan Snowden’s challenging cuisine, such as tempura-fried sweet potato and lemon slices with a balsamic-hazelnut sauce, renders the old lentil-and-tofu approach irrelevant forever more. Emily Spurlin’s vegan squash tart with red curry, topped with Thai-spiced cashews, coconut cream, and black sesame seeds, rejiggers familiar flavors in brave ways.
And the sun-drenched space—especially the smart bar, paved with river stones and sporting a vintage analog amplifier—pulses with energy. If this is a stunt, it’s a damn good one.