Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas’s dark and enthusiastic comfort food salon has no shortage of entry points. There’s the kitchen counter, warmed by a brick-lined hearth, where you can eat a multicourse meal and watch brainy chefs mince fennel fronds and tweeze pea shoots. Or the bar, with wonderful, cockeyed cocktails, like the Pit in the Middle (Cabeza blanco tequila and housemade cola sweetened by PX sherry, in a glass rimmed with a secret spice blend).
Even at lunch, Andrew Brochu’s heroic chicken sandwich with chamomile mayo draws a crowd. So while you gape at your Yukon Gold fries with wispy bonito flakes, someone at the next table is probably declaring the foie gras candy bar “the greatest thing ever.” At Roister, all roads lead to the same destination: fulfillment.