Bargain Dining
Chicago is full of restaurants that offer good food for not much money; you just have to know where to look. We've gathered a definitive package of 90-plus great spots—ethnic, classic, nocturnal, and otherwise—where your dollar goes the distance.
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Photo: Matthew Gilson
Cleary's on Clark
Cleary's on Clark: traditional Irish breakfast.
3438 North Clark Street
773-244-1166
Irish, American
If you've ever had a traditional Irish breakfast, you know that it pretty much takes care of lunch and dinner, too. Cleary's, a glossy Wrigleyville pub, gets it right, dishing up (day or night; $9) a hearty plate of sausages, rashers (here, strips of broiled bacon), puddings (sausage links made of pig's blood, minced pork, breadcrumbs, and seasonings), beans, fried egg, and thick house-made brown bread (plus an American nod: herbed fries). If you're in the mood for less, try a picture-perfect pint of Guinness, and dig into the delicious Harp beer–battered onion rings ($5) or an order of crispy chips ladled with thick, pungent curry sauce ($4).
–J. R.
Photo: Leonard Gertz |
| Kiwi-, strawberry-, and Nutella-filled Crêpe garnished with berries and strawberry ice cream at Crêpe and Coffee Palace |
2433 North Clark Street
773-404-1300
Algerian
Here, complicated-sounding crêpes prove to be as delicious as they are filling. You might think you're not ready for the Marrakech crêpe (with soup, $6.95), which enfolds toasted almonds, raisins, spinach, caramelized onions, mint, cream cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and tapenade, but give it a shot. For those who like their pancakes less rococo, there are plainer ones spread with jam, Nutella, cheese, or other simple fillings ($4.50 to $4.75). A giant fruit cup ($4.25) is easily shared. Finish with a fine cappuccino ($2.75). BYO.
–J. T.
Czech Plaza
7016 West Cermak Road
Berwyn
708-795-6555
Czech
They don't make 'em like this anymore, and it's too bad. Less than $10 gets you a cup of soup, meat (we're partial to the smoked pork butt and the Long Island duck), potatoes or dumplings, cabbage or another vegetable, and a fresh-baked kolácky-and it's all as tasty and authentic as can be. Don't miss the baseball-size fresh fruit dumplings ($6.25 for three) with fluffy dollops of sweet farmer cheese. To drink: brawny bottles of Czech beer.
–J. T.
Photo: Matthew Gilson |
| Edelweiss feast: baked pork shank, red cabbage, sauerkraut, and German fries. |
7650 West Irving Park Road
Norridge
708-452-6040
German
"We won't let you leave until you finish it," the waitress says in a mock-stern German accent about the Bayerische schweinshaxen she's just set down with a thud. It's a three-pound baked pork shank with bock beer sauce-a $21 behemoth that could feed the whole oompah band playing. I share it to stay inside the budget-and my belt. The excellent beers and food at this festive German restaurant are music to my ears: don't miss the roasted duck with crackling mahogany skin and the delightful apple strudel.
–D. R. W.
El Llano
3941 North Lincoln Avenue
773-327-1659
Colombian
When the waitress brought out my breaded pork loin at this reliable Colombian BYO, everyone at the table busted up laughing. The plate was heaped absurdly high with thinly pounded pork cutlets, french fries, fried plantain, cassava strips, rice, and veggies ($10.95). It was enough for three people. But no one could offer help, considering they all had their own challenges in the form of chimichurri strip steaks ($13.95), massive corn pancakes ($2), and plates full of cured Colombian sausage in bite-size nubs ($2.50).
–J. R.
Goose Island Brewpub
1800 North Clybourn Avenue
312-915-0071
American
Any bar meal that starts with a $6 beer flight of four different craft-made brews and a sampler of fine sausages ($8.95) from Paulina Market can't be all bad. For another savory treat, try the fried, then vinaigrette-marinated and chilled chicken livers ($3.95). The huge chicken pot pie is fab ($10.95), as is the Stilton burger in a pumpernickel roll ($9.50). Wind up with the Dreamsicle float made with Goose Island orange cream soda ($3.75). During the weekday happy hour (4 to 6 p.m.; until closing on Monday), all appetizers are half price. Even better: on Fridays oysters are 50 cents each.
–D. R. W.
Greek Islands
200 South Halsted Street
312-782-9855
Greek
Flamed saganaki is as American as apple pie. Too much ouzo on my brain, you think? Think again. Saganaki was invented in Chicago, and Greek Islands is a heck of a good place to catch the "Opaa!" spirit. Just order the family-style dinner ($19 per person) and all good things will come your way. The inexpensive wine flows, the saganaki flames, the dolmades are lemony, the unfussy meatballs and roast lamb are savory, the moussaka and pastitsio are soul-satisfying. As I polished off the fresh baklava with strong coffee, I thought: My big fat Greek appetite has been well satisfied.
–D. R. W.
The Handlebar
2311 West North Avenue
773-384-9546
Vegetarian
This easygoing Wicker Park favorite is aimed at bike messengers and vegetarians-I'm neither, and I still love it. There aren't many places in Chicago with more interesting-or ample-meatless dishes, such as the portobello tacos with tomatillo salsa ($8.50), or a "Green Meanie" sandwich spilling with avocado, herb feta spread, and sprouts ($7.50). Or shift gears to the black beans maduros, layers of sweet plantains, brown rice, jack cheese, and beans over a spicy chipotle-tomato sauce ($9.50). Nice beer list; even nicer desserts, like Key lime pie and plantains Foster.
–J. R.
Kabul House
3320 West Dempster Street
Skokie
847-763-9930
Afghani
The philosophy at this earnest strip-mall spot seems to be: Let's put as much food on the table as we can and show off the bounty of Afghani cooking. It works like a charm, especially in well-done standards such as aushak, doughy scallion-filled dumplings in a yogurt and meat sauce ($5.25), and buranee badenjan, cardamom-tinged sautéed eggplant with homemade yogurt and bread ($5.25). And we don't know any other place in Chicago where you can eat qabili palau-a chunky lamb and rice dish stocked with carrots and raisins ($10.95)-in a curtained, semiprivate booth. BYO ($1.50 corkage).
–J. R.
La Humita
3466 North Pulaski Road
773-794-9672
Ecuadorian
A neon ear of corn signals the origin of this Ecuadorian lovely. Nestor Correa, the owner, guides first-timers through the dishes, beginning with his mother's humita, moist tamale-like corn dough made with fresh cheese and eggs, rolled up in a corn husk, and served with a blazing Ecuadorian salsa ($2.50). Carefully cooked steaks served with sides such as lentils and plantains are easy to like ($12.95 to $13.95), and so is the cheesecake made with a tropical fruit called a naranjilla. There's no cuy (guinea pig), an Ecuadorian favorite, on the menu, but the stewed beef tripe in peanut sauce ($11.95) makes up for it.
–D. R. W.


