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9

Bartoli’s

  • What Bare-bones storefront
  • Where Roscoe Village
  • Style Deep dish
  • Top pie Bartoli’s Chicago Classic
Photo: Jeff Marini

This is what deep dish once was: a light, crunchy yellow crust thinly veiled with mild mozzarella and sweet, chunky sauce hiding nubs of fennely sausage and fresh vegetables. It’s a pie with a capital P—less filling than it is exhilarating. Bartoli’s owner, Brian Tondryk, has pizza in his blood: Fred Bartoli, a founder of Gino’s East, was his grandfather. Tasting Tondryk’s pie reminds you of exactly what it was that had Chicagoans defending deep dish before doing so became a knee-jerk response. 1955 W. Addison St., 773-248-0455

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