Dining Tidbits

Duchamp, Soul, Mana Food Bar, Tamalli

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BUDGET BEAT
Tamalli
Carlos Reyna's latest outpost for Mexican street food recently opened on a sleepy stretch of Armitage Avenue in west Bucktown—though the occasional rumbling of the Blue Line overhead wakes it up. Like Maíz, his Humboldt Park corn palace, Tamalli zeroes in on simple, everyday food that goes easy on the taste buds and the budget. Menu prices top out at eight bucks, and even the antojito (snack)-size portions are often deceptively filling. The best bet is to share a bunch, starting with—natch—the tamal. Nothing beats the slightly sweet fresh-ground-corn-based tamal de elote, except maybe the earthy tamal oaxaqueño, prettily perched atop a banana leaf and topped with either chicken, chorizo, pork, or vegetables plus a garden's worth of mesclun, cheese, and sour cream. Impeccably fresh guacamole dotted with dried cranberries is another hit, as is an ensalada starring jicama and mango splashed with a creamy avocado dressing. Don't miss dainty enchiladas stoked with a feisty salsa verde or make-your-own tacos (alambre cazuela) with an extensive choice of toppings from cecina (marinated steak) to cactus. Terrific booze-free sipping options include a frothy, cinnamon-dusted horchata and fruit-filled gems such as a strawberry licuado or a smooth mango bebida fría. The setting, with its tropical colors, whimsical paintings, and open kitchen, is just as upbeat as the chow. Cash only and BYO ($2 per person). 2459 W. Armitage Ave.; 773-276-1441. –Jill Rhode