A Guide to Great Facial Hair

OUR FACIAL HAIR PRIMER: One beard we love, the most flattering fuzz for your face, and the answer to the question, “Can a beard get you laid?”

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3. Now let’s find the most flattering fuzz for your face

Shaving shaman Allan Peterkin, author of The Bearded Gentleman: The Style Guide to Shaving Face, offers some basic tips in choosing the ideal shape for your cranium.

ROUND FACE?
Strong vertical lines can create a slimming effect if kept thin. One common mistake is cutting the neck line too close below the jaw. Aim for halfway between your chin and Adam’s apple.

Facial hair for round faces
SUBTLE
Sideburns create the illusion of length by framing the face in parallel lines.
CLASSIC
A blocky goatee that’s squared at the bottom will strengthen your jaw line.
FULL THROTTLE
A full, pointed beard that hangs off the chin will make your face look longer if trimmed on the sides.

 

LONG, THIN FACE?
Avoid linear styles like sideburns, chin straps, goatees, or soul patches that have a pulling-down effect. A neatly groomed beard can give some balance—a thicker beard can lengthen your face even more.

Facial hair for long faces
SUBTLE
A good five o’clock shadow is a place to start.
CLASSIC
Try a midlength beard with a more curved finish, kept slightly thicker on the cheeks to add some width.
FULL THROTTLE
The Garibaldi: named after the grizzled early 19th-century Italian and his hirsute half-circle

 

LARGE MOUTH, NOSE, OR UPPER LIP?
Avoid thin lines—they make all big features look bigger—and go for a well-groomed mustache as a decoy. The general rule: It’s better to be Tom Selleck than Steven Tyler.

Facial hair for large mouth, nose, or upper lip
SUBTLE
The Pyramid: narrow at the top and wide at the bottom
CLASSIC
The Chevron: works best when it barely conceals the upper lip
FULL THROTTLE
The Walrus: Let it extend past the corners of your mouth, and no one will notice much else.

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Illustrations: Jasmin Fuhr 

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