Saen Mullix for Sable Kitchen & Bar
With half and full portions available for most items, Heather Terhune’s menu is fresh and playful, if slightly mind-boggling. Many of her creations—buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, deviled eggs spiked with truffle oil—are dangerously indulgent, so it’s smart to dabble in small sizes.
The best dishes reside in the menu’s “Between Bread” section, which boasts seriously savory sliders (lamb with minted yogurt, root-beer-glazed short rib, lobster roll). Finish with the cute deconstructed s’more.
You may not be fond of the River North restaurant’s cramped, awkward setup, but after a few of mixologist Mike Ryan’s cocktails, you’ll get over it.
Dishes We Liked: deviled eggs ($5, $8), bacon jam ($13), New England lobster roll ($15, $28), mini wild mushroom veggie burgers ($7, $12), shrimp and grits ($13, $24), s’more ($9).
Sable Kitchen & Bar, 505 N. State Street, Chicago IL.
New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Sable Kitchen & Bar’s rating decreased from two to one and a half stars in the May issue, on newsstands now.