Ing Review: Elaborate Tasting Menus That Take a Sense of Humor

Homaro Cantu’s West Loop restaurant switches up the 6- or 10-course lineups every few weeks.

photo courtesy ing

Ing (951 W. Fulton Market, 855-834-6464). Contemporary/Eclectic.

★★ (very good)
$$$$ ($50-plus per person for a meal, without tax, tip, or alcohol)

Abandoning his quest to create modernist reinterpretations of Asian classics, Homaro Cantu has shifted to dreaming up elaborate six- and ten-course themed tasting menus. At Ing, the dishes change every six weeks or so. But a sense of humor is required every visit.

Imagine a feast based on Martin Scorsese movies, which includes savory veal cannoli, a simple chanterelle and fennel fettuccine, and a caponata crespelle served next to a mug shaped like a handgun, and you’ll get the idea. Luckily, each menu is paired with smart cocktail, beer, and wine selections, all of which are deftly deconstructed by a young, hip, and well-informed staff.

Dishes We Liked: (All dishes are part of wine-paired prix fixe menus.) Caponata and basil Taleggio paired with the Six Shooter (rum, pineapple, and Campari); fettuccine, chanterelle, and fennel paired with Dunkel lager; chocolate, mint, and kaffir lime paired with the OCD (bourbon, Earl Grey, and sweet vermouth).

New restaurant reviews, updated to reflect critics’ recent visits, appear each month in Chicago magazine, in Dine, as well as on our website. Listed restaurants are rated from one to four stars, where one is good, two is very good, three is excellent, and four is superlative. Ing was previously not listed. The new reviews appear in the April issue, on newsstands Thursday.

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