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Son of a Butcher’s Brunch Has Some Killer Pulled Pork

The under-the-radar spot in Logan Square has some vegetarian-friendly options for brunchers as well.

Piggie by the pound at Son of a Butcher Tavern   Photo: Carly Boers

The shtick: Mellow neighborhood brunch that skews decidedly meaty.

The vibe: This months-old addition to the busy dining scene in Logan Square seems to have flown under the radar thus far—possibly due to its location on a previously desolate block. Or maybe it’s because the neighborhood’s vegans and vegetarians are scared off by its name. However, over the course of our recent visit, the very cool two-room space—which features old-world paintings, a taxidermied deer, and a mural of a small-town butcher shop on the wall—filled in nicely with laidback couples and not-as-laidback families. 8 out of 10

The drinks: The full cocktail menu is on offer, along with the requisite Bloody Mary and mimosa. We’ve been on a bit of a beermosa kick lately. Although the drink is not on the menu, our server graciously obliged and delivered two mighty fine specimens. One was noticeably more boozy than the other but otherwise, no grievances. 8 out of 10

The food: You’ve gotta go meaty here, and Piggie by the pound ($11) may just be the best brunch deal in the city (and also the dish with the lamest name). It’s a full pound of ultra-tender pulled pork that was smoked in-house, plus freshly made corn tortillas to create DIY tacos. Pro tip: Order an over-medium egg on the side to make this a tad more brunch appropriate…and even more wonderfully indulgent.

We wanted to see if we stood a chance of bringing meat-shunning friends here one day, so we tested out the vegetarian hash ($14). Roasted seasonal veggies are crowned with a poached egg, a tangle of fried leek straws, and some tasty basil hollandaise. It’s solid, and one of those hearty dishes that proves vegetarian doesn’t necessarily equate to light eating. Our only gripe is that the “seasonal veggies” were cauliflower, broccoli, and carrots: That’s fine, but in the heat of summer, we’d expect a less garden-variety mix. 8 out of 10

The service: The crew seemed genuinely happy to be at work, and our server’s easygoing, accommodating demeanor set the perfect tone for a leisurely meal. She had plenty of tables to tend to, but made sure to pop over as soon as our meal was delivered—and to notice the kitchen forgot to send out a side item (which she immediately remedied). 10 out of 10

Overall: We had reservations about sitting down to such a meat-tastic meal before noon, but that killer pulled pork changed our tune. 8.5 out of 10

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