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At Kinmont, Try the Rough Fish

Chef Duncan Biddulph will focus on infrequently eaten seafood species when the River North place opens in February.

Chef Duncan Biddulph of the soon-to-open Kinmont.
Chef Duncan Biddulph of the soon-to-open Kinmont.   Photo: Potluck Creative

Scheduled to open in February, Kinmont (419 W. Superior St., River North, no phone yet) plans to cast its net wider than usual, bringing in infrequently eaten species called rough fish. Chef Duncan Biddulph (Lula Cafe, Rootstock) says he plans to treat the rough fish with gentleness. “Each dish will be a composed plate unto itself,” he says. “Whichever method of cooking suits the fish best is how we are going to do it.”

The new restaurant from the team behind Old Town Social and Nellcôte, Kinmont also will feature Midwestern freshwater fish such as rainbow trout, an often-overlooked category. “We’re looking to do soft-scrambled eggs with smoked whitefish,” Biddulph says. All seafood, Midwestern or ocean, fish or shellfish, will be sustainable.

Desserts, overseen by the corporate pastry chef Nate Meads, will include an apple pie with vanilla ice cream and cheddar-caramel sauce. The fish may be rough, but the desserts sound anything but.

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