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33

Birrieria Zaragoza

Birria with all the fixings Photo: Jeff Marini

Get your goat at this institution of birria, the heady Mexican stew typically made with meat from the aforementioned animal. Juan Zaragoza started making the stuff in this storefront in 2007, and since then he’s garnered national attention for his version of the Jalisco comfort food. He and his son, Jonathan, run the kitchen, butchering up to 60 goats a week, steaming and marinating the meat in mole until it falls apart at the slightest touch, and serving it alongside tender corn tortillas and a tomato-based broth. Even the goat-averse will be swooning: The meat is flavorful, not gamy, with a multilayered spiciness thanks to the mole. If you’re still not won over, you’re out of luck. Zaragoza doesn’t bother serving much else.

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