Price point: $14 for the glazed pork belly sandwich
While bacon enjoys nearly universal approval, devouring a 1/2-inch thick slab of uncured pork belly still divides us. It’s sort of like Kanye at an awards show: Either you think he’s an ungrateful brat hogging the spotlight, or the only exciting presence at a staid and completely superfluous ceremony. Salero’s (621 W Randolph St, 312-466-1000; salerochicago.com) opinion on the matter is made absolutely clear with the glazed pork belly sandwich.
At first glance, the sandwich looks like a BLT variation, but this glistening slab of pork is far too greedy to share the spotlight. Instead, it completely dominates each bite, with a crispy exterior and an ultra juicy interior. Obviously, the rest of the components play more of a supporting role, but that doesn’t stop them from making an impression. The creamy hazelnut romesco sauce accentuates the richness of the pork, while the pickles go in the other direction, adding crunch and acid.
Instead of fries, Salero serves the sandwich with a heap of papas bravas. They certainly look beautiful all coated in the sauce, but the potatoes probably would have been a bit crunchier had they come out naked with the spicy tomato sauce on the side. But that’s a minor quibble on an otherwise gleefully fatty lunch.