In her dream-come-true pasta-centric kitchen, Sarah Grueneberg and her team roll, stretch, and shape much of the pasta by hand and cook it with both bold and subtle flourishes: wok- frying strangozze with shrimp and hot pepper oil for a memorable arrabbiata, stuffing pasta purses with spring greens and ricotta for tender tortelli verdi, and, in a climb-every-mountain showstopper, packing her ragu alla napoletana with enough pork shank, meatballs, and sausages to incite a table-for-four face-off. The wine list has many well-priced options. Butterscotch budino is an appropriately indulgent finish.