An American chef tours Belgium, takes notes on what the locals eat, and comes back with moules frites. At Leopold, a Belgian-style spot in Noble Square, Jeffrey Hedin is making other nods at tradition: oysters, poutine merguez, and steak tartare. His mussels will come at least two ways—such as with ham and leeks in Hennepin saison ale or in a creamy white wine curry. As far as authenticity goes, Hedin draws the line at viande chevaline, an amuse-bouche he tried in Bruges. “It was sweet like roast beef,” he says. “I wouldn’t have known it was horse meat if they didn’t tell me.” 1450 W. Chicago Ave.; no phone at press time.
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