Boka’s reinvention upped the ante, foodwise. Lee Wolen brings a deadly serious slant to the offerings; the decor goes in another direction entirely (there’s a portrait of Bill Murray as a sea captain). The kitchen hits great heights, slow-cooking loup de mer and serving it with calamari and preserved blood oranges. A yuzu custard with black sesame cake, pineapple sorbet, and candied buckwheat comes off like a panna cotta that attended finishing school. The cocktail crowd makes plenty of noise of its own, even on the elegant back patio.