The restaurant that launched Brendan Sodikoff’s Hogsalt empire harks back to gastropub-ascendant days with a mood-lit, swanky atmosphere. Flavors come on strong—rightfully so in a rich mousse of foie gras and pork liver, but overmuch in the too-big, too-fudgy chocolate cake. Almost all menu items are executed well—octopus carries a perfect char, pork sausage pasta delivers spice, chicken stays juicy—so diners’ ultimate verdicts probably depend on how much they love such high-octane food. Classic cocktails excel.
Dishes We Liked
Burrata with smashed peas, mint, and pickled ramps ($14); fava bean salad with farro, feta, almonds, and Champagne vinaigrette ($10); Gunthorp Farms chicken with oregano and roasted garlic ($19); 20 -to-26 ounce coal-fired rib eye with béarnaise and Maldon steak salt ($44 to $46); raspberry sorbet ($4)