Tony Mantuano is the master of a flashy contemporary style that combines delicacies from all over Italy with modernist touches: for example, spicy Calabrian nduja sausage in an untraditional risotto with premium Piedmontese Castelmagno cheese. An unfussy Muscovy duck breast in foie gras sauce captivates. Fabulous Italian cheeses and wines. Seasonal tasting menu (seven courses, $95; 14 courses, $165).
Dishes We Liked
Venison tartare ($24); carbonara with guanciale and pecorino (50 grams, $25; 100 grams, $45); branzino with Cape Cod mussels, cauliflower, salsify, and golden raisins ($41); gelatos and sorbets (selection of three flavors $9)