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The Publican

837 W. Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 60607

Critic’s Notes

The one-time jewel in the crown of One Off Hospitality (Big Star, Avec) shines less brightly lately, its porcine pleasures muddled by inconsistent execution and absentee servers. That’s not to say you won’t still coo over well-balanced seasonal small plates or the umami-packed smoked ham chop. But some flavors either punch too hard or barely register, and even the famed roast chicken has lost its luster. The constant crowds don’t seem to have noticed, though, and the decadent weekend brunch remains a worthy tradition.

Dishes We Liked

Bread plate with three spreads ($11), apple salad ($14), chicken liver pâté ($13), ham chop in hay (market price), beef tongue ($18), butterscotch pudding ($7)

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Additional Information:

Price: $40-$69
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Neighborhood: West Loop/West Town
Noteworthy: Child friendly
High noise level
Outdoor dining
Wheelchair accessible
Will seat past 10:30 p.m.
Hours: D nightly. Br Sat, Sun. Late seating Fri, Sat.
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