After 27 years, Rick Bayless’s encyclopedic love letter to regional Mexican food reads better than ever. The menus and decor are in sync—equal parts historical and ultramodern. Chef de cuisine Andres Padilla comes up with stunners such as Oaxacan enfrijoladas—crispy homemade corn tortillas enfolding parsnip-camote mash, seared tomatitos, queso de cincho, and knob onions. Wonderful desserts, such as warm bread pudding infused with queso añejo, seamlessly extend the new attitude.