Paul Virant’s posh enterprise elevates robust Midwestern flavors to high style. Gnocchi with duck confit and grilled mushrooms can lead to entrées such as wood-grilled strip steak and braised beef cheeks with Yorkshire pudding. Then perhaps gooey St. Louis cream cheese butter cake with sour cherry jam and a lacy cherry tuile. Whatever you choose, meals begin with a palate-awakening amuse-bouche and close with a smile-inducing whoopie pie.