“People go wild over my marinara sauce,” says Sead Habibovic, owner and chef at Toscana (4907 Oakton St., Skokie; 847-674-5446), a simple, roomy hideaway that he runs with his wife, Amra. One bite of his vegetarian napoleon (pictured here; $8.75), a lively layering of noodles, ricotta, spinach, zucchini, and breaded eggplant splashed with a deep red marinara, turns us into instant fans. Habibovic hails from Bosnia but perfected his pasta prowess at restaurants in Italy and Austria, followed by a ten-year stint as sous-chef at The Berghoff. Nearly everything offered at Toscana sneaks in under $10, so it’s fun to mix it up. Start with made-from-scratch soups such as soothing, crouton-bedecked cream of broccoli, move on to bruschetta dotted with roasted tomato and goat cheese, split a pasta or two, and have a go at the zaftig burger with sizzling cottage fries. Pizza is another possibility; the thin-crust offerings come generously dappled with such unexpected bounty as corn and salami, an egg, and artichoke hearts. Weekends bend toward Bosnia: rosemary-scented stuffed leg of lamb ($15.95) makes an appearance, and so does Habibovic’s mother’s phyllo dough stuffed with goodies like salmon, cream cheese, and leeks or a trio of savory mushrooms. Upon leaving, don’t be surprised if Sead pops out of the kitchen to say goodbye. It’s that kind of a place.