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Jaipur Travel: A Desert Flower

ESCAPE ARTIST: A devotee of India shows us her Jaipur, a city that offers ancient treasures, modern comforts, and shopping galore

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Clockwise from top left: An elephant on parade; luxurious modern design at the new Devi Ratn; a ceramic pot vendor at one of Jaipur’s many bazaars; Samode Haveli, a historic-mansion-turned-hotel in the Old City


Devi Ratn Design-minded new hotel 20 minutes outside the city. Jamdoli, Agra Rd., Ballupura; 141-3050211, deviresorts.in. From $370. ITC Rajputana Modern but built to feel like a luxurious historical haveli. Palace Rd.; 141-5100100, itchotels.in. From $200. Samode Haveli Beautiful former mansion in the center of the Old City. Gangapole; 141-2632407, samode.com. From $260. Taj Rambagh Palace Hotel Jaipur’s best; if you don’t stay there, at least go for tea on the terrace. Bhawani Singh Rd.; 141-2211919, tajhotels.com. From $610.

1135 A.D. At this perch atop Jaipur’s famous Amber Fort, dine like royalty on silver plates, serenaded by musicians. Amber Fort; 141-2530148. Anokhi Café Stylish spot for French-press coffee and Western-style organic vegetarian food. Anokhi; see “Shop.” Lassiwala The creamiest yogurt smoothies in Jaipur; look for the store’s blue-and-white-striped awning. Tiwari Building, MI Rd.

Andraab 38, Gupta Garden, Amer Rd.; 141-2670445, andraab.com. Anokhi 2nd floor KK Square, C-11 Prithviraj Rd., C-Scheme; 141-4007244, anokhi.com. Fabindia 22 Godam Cir., Bhawani Singh Rd.; 141-5115997, fabindia.com. Gem Palace MI Rd.; 141-2374175, gempalacejaipur.com. Hot Pink Narain Niwas Palace, Kanota Bagh, Narain Singh Rd.; 141-5108932, hotpinkindia.com. Rasa S-55 Ashok Marg, C-Scheme; 141-4038584, shop.rasajaipur.com.  Saffron by Nidhi Tholia C72-B Sarojini Marg; 141-2369986. Tholia’s Kuber Tholia Building, MI Rd.

Jaipur Elephant Festival On March 7, the eve of India’s festival of color, elephants get the royal treatment. Jaipur Literature Festival jaipurliteraturefestival.org. Jal Mahal An 18th-century palace in a lake, restored to its original splendor. jaltarang.in; call 916-6958000 for an appointment. Ventours International Rent a car and driver; $55 for eight hours. ventours.com. Virasat Journeys Walking tours come with a copy of Six Walks to Discover the Old City. virasatjourneys.com.


Photography: (Clockwise from top left) Dallas and John Heaton/Stock Connection; courtesy of Devi Ratn Jaipur; Paul Beinssen/Lonelyplanetimages; Berthold Steinhilber/Laif


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