Grilled wings by Randal Jacobs at Elate

“I was walking down this really obscure street in Beijing and happened on this Chinese guy,” says Randal Jacobs, the chef of Elate. “No shirt. Just shorts. Sitting on a milk crate grilling chicken wings on a hibachi grill.” Three orders of wings later, an idea was born. The wings Jacobs came up with for Elate call for an hour in the oven with lemongrass and grilled limes before they are meticulously boned and glazed with house-made sriracha barbecue sauce. Three minutes over the hibachi grill finishes them off. We haven’t been through the back alleys of Beijing, but these babies are as flavorful and juicy as any wings we’ve ever had. Hotel Felix, 111 W. Huron St.; 312-202-9900.


Photograph: Anna Knott