Talk about a breath of fresh air: Modest, family-run Angin Mamiri offers local Indonesians a homey taste of the old country, a taste unavailable anywhere else in the city, as far as we know. Newcomers to the cuisine will find the name of the place (which translates, roughly, as something like “the arrival of a light breeze”) apt. The cooking is indeed light, involving fish and seafood, halal chicken and beef, vegetables, peanuts, coconut, and rice in many forms—as steamed cubes (lontong), as turmeric-laced mounds, as flour in drinks and desserts. Favorite recent bites included martabak telor ($3.25), flat crisps of wonton sandwiched with eggs, ground beef, and green onion; croquette-like risoles ($3.25) filled with creamy chicken and vegetables; superb beef satay ($8.25) with lontong, peanut sauce, and vinegared cucumber, carrot, and pineapple salad; and a generous gado-gado ($6.75), mixed vegetable salad. For dessert, we liked es palu butung ($3.50), a sweet soup of plantain chunks topped by crushed ice drizzled with pink-rose syrup, and also the charming flower-shaped cakes ($5 for six) packaged for takeout, near the register. Service can flag, but staffers are unfailingly polite. 2739 W. Touhy Ave.; 773-262-6646.
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