Whichever neighborhood Jerry Kleiner chooses to hang his velvet curtains usually feels grateful for the spectacle and the inevitably packed houses that follow for months on end. This time it’s Old Town, the theme is post-Prohibition 1930s, and the usual pattern holds. The dramatic staircase, soaring ceiling, and vertigo-ey mezzanine are typical Kleiner, but his secret weapon at 33 Club is Daniel Kelly, whose imaginative cooking we liked at D. Kelly in the West Loop a few years back. Here, Kelly’s working his magic on affordable American dishes, such as braised veal ragout, his beloved chicken stuffed with lobster, and a roster of fun bar munchies like a whitefish hoagie and bacon popcorn. 1419 N. Wells St.; 312-664-1419.
5 days ago