Right before a restaurant opens, they usually throw a party for the media. Since our dining editors review eating establishments anonymously, they never show at these parties (waiting, instead, to dine there shortly after the opening so they won’t be “outed"). But sometimes they get curious, and when they do, they send someone like me.
Oprah’s chef, Art Smith, right, introduces his chef de cuisine and longtime assistant, Rey Villalobos.
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