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Think of a wine bar, and your mind might conjure a super classy space with a decidedly adult vibe. Bar Ramone (441 N. Clark St., River), the first spot from Lettuce Entertain You dedicated entirely to vino, will likely shatter all these notions.

Long and narrow, the cozy space is filled with eclectic decorations from paintings hung salon-style to a mishmash of light fixtures. The centerpiece is the bar itself, which offers just over 100 distinct bottles of wine, exhibited like rare books in a treasured library. (A rolling ladder, providing access to top shelves, is a cool touch.)

On a recent Saturday evening, a playlist featuring Jay-Z, Japandroids, and Chance the Rapper kept the atmosphere extra lively as wine enthusiasts sipped their drinks and nibbled on small plates whisked their way from the open kitchen. Others forwent glasses entirely, opting to try porróns filled with various styles of Txakoli. Even if pouring wine straight into your mouth isn’t exactly your thing, the prominence of the porrón is a testament to Bar Ramone’s readiness to be a sophisticated watering home that welcomes a bit of rambunctiousness.

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