At Bohemian House, there is colorful Old World–type stuff everywhere you look, including old sewing machines balanced atop coffee table bookshelves. But in a world of sensory overload, BoHo maintains a great vibe without bursting your eardrums or crushing your spirit.

And then there’s the menu, chock full of Czech stuff from a Greek chef. Jimmy Papadopoulos has got the potato pancakes and chicken paprikás down pat. Pork schnitzel seems authentic, albeit mundane, but the crispy, tender, juicy, decadent slab of pork belly atop spaetzle should be enough to make Boho a contender.

Innocent sounding chocolate custard holds many secrets.

Bohemian House. 11 W. Illinois St., River North, 312-955-0439