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Dining Tidbits

For April 2008: Park 52, Schwa, Haussmann Brasserie, Curio Cafe

(page 3 of 4)

SECOND WAVE
Schwa

After a self-imposed four-month hiatus, Michael Carlson’s iconoclastic, lovable BYO Schwa hit the ground not just running but also pirouetting. The 24-seat room was immediately full of Carlson devotees happily surrendering to the experience, which was stripped of schmooze and ceremony as much as ever, and as richly civilized. A ten-course prix fixe menu ($105) offered one mind-expanding treat after another, from jellyfish pad Thai to arctic char roe with pumpernickel blini and crystal clear rutabaga consommé to an astonishing dessert of parsnip-custard decked with ice-wine caramel and candied sweetbreads. That’s right—sweetbreads. Welcome back, Michael! 1466 N. Ashland Ave.; 773-252-1466. –Joanne Trestrail

 

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