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Dennis Ray Wheaton on the small-batch gin and vodka by Death’s Door Spirits

Lately, I’ve been knocking on Death’s Door. Small-batch gin and vodka by Death’s Door Spirits on Washington Island, Wisconsin, come from the island’s famed wheat and wild juniper berries, as well as other pesticide- and herbicide-free local botanicals. A deliciously complex mix of juniper, fennel, and coriander informs the gin; the vodka has a sweet, clean flavor with a wheaty bouquet. Either would be politically correct with tonic and lime on a hot summer day ($32 each at Randolph Wine Cellar).

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